Josep Grau Montsant l'Efecte Volador 2020 PURYEARSALE Two decades on they are

Two decades on they are among Germany's most convincing Pinot Noir producers

This one splits the difference between Pinot Blanc

whole-cluster presses the fruit

this Nebbiolo enchants with macerated cherries

Thirty-six months in barrel have softened the early power

Josep Grau Montsant l'Efecte Volador 2020 PURYEARSALE Two decades on they areMontsant wraps around Priorat like a horseshoe, sharing the same old Garnacha and Samso vines and much of the same rugged country, but without the fame or the swagger. Josep Grau farms 26 hectares there organically, no herbicides or pesticides, and he bottles his wines without correcting them: what the vineyard gives is what goes in the bottle. Volador is his first wine of every vintage, drawn from vines between 30 and 80 years old, and the name