Marco de Bartoli Sicilia Bianco Pietranera 2024 no ups the Sabon family at Clos

the Sabon family at Clos du Mont-Olivet just refused to play along

Mid palate the flavor turns deeply spicy

calcareous soils and big day-to-night temperature swings give the wine its tension and lift

A rare and worthwhile bottle from a great Pauillac address

Twelve months in mostly neutral French oak keeps the frame tight rather than sweet

Marco de Bartoli Sicilia Bianco Pietranera 2024 no ups the Sabon family at ClosIn 1989, Marco de Bartoli did something nobody on Pantelleria had thought to do: he made Zibibbo dry. The grape had been the island's dessert wine workhorse for centuries, and turning it into a serious dry white was close to heretical. Pietranera means black stone, for the volcanic rubble the vines grow in, and it comes from a plot in the Cufura district planted in 1957 on north facing terraces at 350 meters, where the sun is kinder. It is aromatic